El Born

 
 
 
 
 
 
Abby and I are staying in a small apartment we’ve rented for one month while we look for more permanent housing. Snicker away, if you must. Our standard for “permanence” is just different, that’s all. Our place is on Carrer de Jaume-Giralt, no. 57. Here it is on a map:

 
 
 
 
 
 

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We live in “El Born” district which is a sort of sub-neighborhood of what’s called “Ciutat Vella” or the Old City. Barcelona is old—really old, depending on how you want to measure it. Neolithic remains have been found here of people buried perhaps 6000 years ago. The cathedral, very close to our apartment, is about 500 years old. (Hard to say exactly because its construction spanned over one hundred years, and then some. Matter of fact, they are working on it right now.) The streets of El Born are ancient, narrow, twisted, and dark. Many five- and six-story buildings form this medieval maze.

 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 


 
 
 
 
 
 


 
 
 
 
 
 
When you stroll through El Born, you notice first the paint. In the early morning, before the businesses open, the incredible amount of graffiti gives you the impression you are somewhere quite dangerous and lawless. There is no such thing as an unpainted door. In a generous show or restraint or respect, most of the “artists” spare the city walls themselves and only decorate doors. Indeed, many shopkeepers paint cool-looking murals on their rolldowns before the kids can junk them up, beating them to the punch.

 
 
 
 
 
 


 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 


 
 
 
 
 
 
After about nine in the morning, the neighborhood turns, believe it or not, quite chic. Behind the anarchist façade lie any number of delicious bakeries, produce markets and sweet shops, and hundreds of boutique clothing stores await. And I’m getting hungry now, so you will have to wait for more photos later!